Location:
The Lleyn peninsula is the northern limiter of Wales’ Cardigan Bay and has a history of pilgrimage as well as many prehistoric artefacts and burial chambers. The tip of the Lleyn peninsula is as close as you can get to Bardsey Island without making the crossing and it is to the Bardsey Retreat that pilgrims headed in the past. The monastery was in use until the dissolution of the monasteries in 1537. It is said that one pilgrimage to Bardsey was equivalent of three to Rome!
Between Bardsey and Rhiw are Aberdaron and Porth Ysgo which contribute to a rugged coastline and an intricate western panorama which lends itself to sunset imagery. If the timing is good Bardsey Island is placed just in front of the sinking sun and a dark craggy coastline nearer to hand, ideal!
Rhiw is situated on a 600m headland that also plays a part by adding variable height into any image composition. Having set the scene, all it takes is the correct situation and the anticipated images can be taken. Of course, Rhiw is also remote, meaning that a decision to go does not always deliver. It took three attempts over a couple of years before all the factors were in place and I finally photographed the sunset I wanted.
Context:
The Llŷn peninsula runs Westward for 30 miles at the northern extremity of Cardigan Bay and ends in a headland just beyond Aberdaron. At the tip of the peninsula, is Bardsey Island (welsh: Ynys Enlli, meaning Island of the Tides), lying 2 miles offshore. Historically, Bardsey, also known as the “island of 20,000 saints”, was, and from the 6the century onwards, the destination for pilgrims visiting the island retreat at this remote location. The pilgrimage that begins at Holywell, has recently been traced along the North Wales coast. The route covers 130 miles from Holywell and is recognised as an arduous undertaking. (check https://britishpilgrimage.org/portfolio/north-wales-pilgrims-way/).
Today there are some 12 houses on Bardsey island, a square-built lighthouse and a bird observatory. As is often the case, close proximity of an island to a headland will result in strong undercurrents and unpredictable turbulence. This is the case with Bardsey and ferry crossings to the island have often been fraught with danger. Nevertheless, visitors do go to Bardsey and some spend a holiday on the island.
Early pilgrims made the hazardous crossing from Porth Meudwy in Aberdaron Bay, which is one of the few breaks in the coastal cliffs forming the end of the Llŷn peninsula. This is still the route today. Bardsey Island is not visible from Porth Meudwy, so it is necessary to round Pen y Cil headland before the island comes into view. At this point a crossing to Bardsey Island begins proper, which is still around 2 miles to travel. It is necessary to be precise in the navigation of the crossing, as landfall on Bardsey is made using a narrow slipway in a rocky coast.
The overall distance of the crossing is something in the region of 3 miles, which is not too intimidating, unless you take into account the fierce tides which run through Bardsey Sound as the tides rise and fall. Also, shelter from the prevailing SW wind only happens in the final part of the journey, if at all. Beyond the island is the Irish Sea where strong winds cross to reach Bardsey and take part in the mayhem. The island’s winds are also likely to generate pressure differentials around the island’s high ground leading to unpredictable wind eddies which get stronger as the windspeed increases.
When you consider all the above, and the fact that the early pilgrims used coracles as well as other lightweight boats, that skipped lightly across the wave crests, this was a severe undertaking. Hence the crossing to Bardsey became regarded as a journey full of trepidation and superstition. The crossing is still treated with much respect by those who take to the sea.
In terms of the Llŷn Peninsula as a whole, the route of the pilgrimage created population centres where the rest stops were made, along with pastoral guidance at churches along the way. Keeping on the religious theme, there are archaeological remains of many prehistoric burial chambers throughout the Llŷn Peninsula as well as hut circles and forts. There is an ambience of spirituality, tradition and history on the Llŷn. Geographically, the area is a high-level plateau, principally moorland, with several granite intrusions causing uplands along its length, relating to the Snowdonian geological activity, although the bed rock of the Llŷn Peninsula is amongst the oldest that can be found. The Llŷn bedrock is significantly older than the Snowdonian rock structure, the creation of which resulted in much upheaval and folding of pre-existing rocks on Llŷn, leading to the complicated geological profile of today.
Geologically, Rhiw is situated in an intrusion area, being a rhyolite outcrop, with some gabbro, overlooking the coast of Hell’s Mouth (welsh: Porth Neigwl) to the East and Porth Ysgo, as well as Aberdaron, to the West. As with many Welsh upland areas the Llŷn peninsula has many mines and quarries and this is true of Rhiw, where manganese was mined (Mynydd Rhiw and Porth Ysgo). There have been archaelogical finds much early axe factories, and hut circles have been identified. The neighbouring Porth Ysgo bay was a coastal manganese mining location, much in need during the first World War, from where the ore was transported by sea for processing.
I was drawn to Rhiw as it has a wide-ranging western aspect towards the tip of Llŷn and Bardsey Island, across Porth Ysgo. The possibility for shooting sunsets was good and the elevated position means that it is possible to shoot sunsets year-round, despite the variable sunset position. On the East side of Rhiw a wide panorama across Hell’s Mouth is seen but photographic opportunity here is more limited by the topography.
Rick Spurgeon, 08-Jan-2021
Rhiw & Bardsey Contact Sheet for Reference:
